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Mystical Ajolotes and Hidden Castles: Kayak in Xochimilco, Mexico City!

  • Writer: Zoe Astill
    Zoe Astill
  • Dec 20, 2024
  • 4 min read

When I think of adventurous outings, the enchanting canals of Xochimilco spring to mind—this vibrant gem of Mexico City is a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with culture and history. Last month, I took a break from my usual activities in Xochimilco to kayak through these ancient waterways, where mariachi bands serenade visitors and colourful trajineras glide over the sun-dappled waters. What made this day unforgettable was my visit to an ajolote sanctuary and the chance to explore a mysterious white castle quietly tucked away in the canals.


A Glimpse of Xochimilco


If you've yet to visit Xochimilco, imagine a vibrant scene where green gardens meet glimmering canals, enveloped by lively markets, bars and family-run eateries. The area’s history stretches back to the Aztecs, who utilized the canals for agricultural purposes, cultivating floating gardens known as chinampas. Today, these canals attract travellers for their breathtaking beauty, festive atmosphere and unique biodiversity. Over 300 wildlife species thrive here, making it one of the most biologically diverse areas in Mexico City.

Canals of Xochimilco
Vibrant trajineras on the main tourist canals of Xochimilco.

Setting Off to Kayak in Xochimilco


As I began my kayaking adventure, laughter and lively music echoed in the principal canals that bring thousands of visitors every year to the trajineras— traditional flat-bottomed boats adorned with vibrant colours and designs representing local communities. This time, we decided to rent a kayak and explore a different part of the canals. Apart from the chance for exercise, it allowed me to navigate from one floating garden to another, immersing myself fully in this enchanting region's rich culture and spirit away from the usual lively scene in Xochi.


We met our guide at a small church, about a 10-minute walk from the hustle and bustle of the lively market square. We followed him down a small side street until it joined an entry into a small section of the canals. We received a safety briefing, our life jackets and a quick demonstration of maneuvering a kayak.


With that out of the way, we climbed into our kayaks, and I was instantly enveloped by the serenity of the canals. Paddling through the calm waters felt like gliding through a living painting. With every stroke, I felt the magic of Xochimilco wrapping around me.


I took in the sights as we passed through the beginning of the canals closest to the tourist areas: families enjoying picnics, local vendors selling delicious tacos and refreshing aguas frescas, and groups of friends filling the air with music and laughter. Each wave told its story, steeped in the area's vibrant heritage.


The Ajolote Sanctuary


Soon, we set off toward the ajolote sanctuary, one of the highlights of the outing. But what exactly is an ajolote? Also known as axolotls, these remarkable aquatic creatures are a type of salamander that remain in their juvenile form throughout their lives. They are endemic to the lakes of Xochimilco and have a remarkable ability to regenerate lost limbs and even parts of their hearts and brains.



Upon our arrival, a knowledgeable guide welcomed us and shared the storied history of the ajolote. These creatures have been part of Mexican folklore for centuries, symbolizing resilience. While they come in various colours, such as pink, brown, and black, the pink ajolotes have become the most commonly found due to genetic mutations and inbreeding due to their dwindling populations. It was deeply moving to learn that they are critically endangered, largely due to habitat loss and pollution. It is expected, according to UNAM, that ajolotes will disappear completely from their natural habitats by next year. Fortunately, local conservation initiatives are working hard to protect them, showcasing a commitment to environmental stewardship.


Visiting the ajolote sanctuary felt bittersweet and magical as I watched these beautiful creatures glide effortlessly through their tanks. I learned that the survival of the ajolote is linked to the health of the Xochimilco ecosystem, serving as a powerful reminder of our fragility and connection to nature. Seeing these creatures up close inspired me. It was a moment I will cherish forever, emphasizing the importance of appreciating and protecting our natural world.


Onwards to the White Castle


Energized after our visit, we continued the kayak journey toward the elusive white castle of Xochimilco. This little-known structure, set atop a small chinampa, beckoned me with its brute architecture and tranquil setting.

The White Castle of Xochimilco
The mysterious white castle captured from the tranquil waters surrounding Xochimilco.

As we paddled closer, its mystery became apparent. Built in the late 19th century by an affluent family, local legends say the castle remains untouched by time. There are stories of ghost sightings that add an air of mystery and intrigue, but beyond that, there isn't much information about the castle— many locals don't even know it exists. It was a perfect spot for reflection, and I couldn’t resist snapping pictures to capture the beauty surrounding me.


Wrapping Up an Unforgettable Day


After our kayak outing, with the sun slowly painting the canals in a warm golden hue, I reflected on my incredible day. Kayaking in Xochimilco offered not only stunning beauty but a deep cultural connection to the mystical ajolotes and the castle.


Leaving the canal where we first entered, I felt full of cherished memories, my spirit uplifted by the experience. This captivating area embodies the essence of eco-travel—exploration, connection, and adventure. I encourage anyone looking for outdoor activities in Mexico City to embrace it all.


So, if you are contemplating an adventure in the nearby canals, do not hesitate. Paddle through Xochimilco, discover the secrets of the ajolote sanctuary, and marvel at the enigmatic white castle. You will create memories that last a lifetime.


This journey reminded me not only of the beauty of nature but also of our responsibility to protect it. Until next time, happy travels!

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