Experiencing the National Mole Festival Near Mexico City - A Foodie's Dream Come True!
- Zoe Astill
- Nov 9, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Nov 16, 2024
As I prepared for the National Mole Festival near Mexico City last week (end of October 2024), excitement filled the air. This festival, famous for celebrating one of Mexico’s most cherished traditional dishes, promised a day rich in flavours, culture, and unforgettable experiences. To say it was memorable would be an understatement; it was enriching, exhilarating and enjoyable in every aspect.
We left from Xochimilco's Market in the south of the city to catch a bus towards San Pedro Atocpan - another small town by Canadian standards, but here, it's still part of Mexico City's Metropolitan area. From Xochimilco, it took about 30 minutes to get to the entrance of the Festival and went off without a hitch.
Great, but What's Mole?😅
Mole (pronounced mole-ay) is one of Mexico’s most beloved dishes—rich, complex, and full of history. It’s a traditional sauce (and sometimes a marinade) made with a unique blend of ingredients that can include chiles, chocolate, nuts, and various spices. If you've ever tasted mole, you know it's like nothing else: a dance of flavours, from smoky and spicy to sweet and earthy. This dish dates back centuries and has roots in indigenous cuisine, with influences from Spanish and African cooking introduced during colonial times.
What Makes Mole So Special?
For many Mexicans, mole isn’t just food; it’s a cultural symbol. It often graces the table during big celebrations like weddings, baptisms, and holidays. Mole is a reminder of Mexico’s culinary heritage, its vibrant flavours, and its ability to bring people together. Each bite of mole carries with it layers of tradition, family recipes, and regional pride.
The Varieties of Mole
Mexico has many types of mole—each region, and sometimes even each family, has its twist. Some of the most well-known varieties come from Oaxaca and include:
- Mole Poblano: This is probably the most famous mole, known for its dark, chocolatey colour and rich chocolate flavour balanced with various chiles and spices. Originating in Puebla, this is the type that many people think of first.
- Mole Negro: Oaxacan mole negro (black mole) is deep, intense, and smoky, often made with a specific blend of dried chiles, chocolate, and even burnt tortillas, which give it a distinctive black colour.
- Mole Rojo: Another Oaxacan specialty, mole rojo (red mole) is slightly lighter than mole negro but still rich and spicy, with a focus on red chiles.
- Mole Amarillo: Also from Oaxaca, this is a thinner, golden (yellow) mole that’s less sweet and often includes green herbs, making it lighter than the darker moles.
- Mole Verde: A green mole that often uses ingredients like pumpkin seeds, green chiles, and fresh herbs. It’s lighter and fresher, with a more herbaceous flavour.
- Mole Coloradito: A lighter red mole with a mild sweetness, often served over enchiladas or chicken.
- Mole Rosa: I have only ever seen pink mole once. Pink mole is a rarer type of mole I have only seen in Taxco, Guerrero. Pink mole is sweet and light, using ingredients like pomegranate, strawberry, white chocolate, cashews and various other spices. Truthfully, I don't even know if there are chiles in it - but it's delicious.
There are many more moles, each with its distinct blend of spices, chiles, and other ingredients, depending on the region. Some sources say there are as many as 300 different types, and each dish can have over 100 ingredients!
The Process of Making Mole
Making mole is not quick or simple; it's a labour of love that often takes hours or even a full day. Traditionally, it involves roasting and grinding ingredients like chiles, nuts, seeds, chocolate, bread, tomatoes, and tomatillos. Here’s a rough outline of the process:
1. Gather and Prepare Ingredients: Different types of chiles are dried and then rehydrated. Seeds, nuts, and other ingredients are toasted or fried to bring out their flavours.
2. Blend and Grind: The ingredients are ground together to create a smooth paste. In the past, this would be done by hand on a *metate* (a traditional stone grinding tool), though today, many people use blenders or food processors.
3. Simmer: The ground mixture is then simmered with broth until it thickens into a sauce, allowing the flavours to meld together.
4. Add Sweeteners and Spices: Ingredients like chocolate, cinnamon, and sugar are added gradually, adjusting the seasoning to balance the flavours.
Every family has its version, often a dish passed down through generations. My favourite mole is definitely from my "abuela," who guards that recipe with her life—even her own children don't know the recipe (yet).
Why Mole is So Important
Mole is more than just a sauce; it’s a connection to Mexican identity and history. It’s a symbol of community, of families gathering to celebrate, and of culinary creativity. Each time mole is made, it carries with it the weight of tradition, and the flavours tell a story of cultural fusion, resilience, and pride. That’s why mole remains such a staple at Mexican celebrations and why it's held close to the heart of Mexican cuisine.
The Aroma of Mole in the Air
Yes, yes, back to the Festival...
Upon arriving at the festival grounds, I was immediately captivated by the vibrant colours and appetizing aromas surrounding me. The entry cost was 20 pesos/ea. (~ CAD 1.50 - seriously, how can you pass this up?) and we entered the festival. Immediately, it was overwhelming for the senses; there was so much to look at, hear, and especially SMELL right off the bat.
With over 200 vendors showcasing diverse offerings of traditional Mexican food, my stomach began to rumble with anticipation. It was easy to stop every few steps to try each vendor's multitude of varieties. Beyond mole, many vendors also sold other traditional foods and drinks like tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, pulque, atole, and so much more. Laughter, music, and the joyful chatter of fellow food enthusiasts created an electric atmosphere where culinary dreams flourished, and I was eager to partake!
Walking through the festival, the savoury scent of mole enveloped me. It was an irresistible welcome! Different vendors presented their unique versions of this classic dish, each inviting me to sample their special recipe. From the deep flavours of mole negro to the sweet and spicy notes of mole verde, each bite provided a taste of Mexico's vibrant culinary history.
In between savoring countless mole samples, I paused to appreciate the artistry and skill behind each dish. Many of the chefs were traditional artisans, proud to share how their family recipes had been passed down through generations.
Among the vendors there were also a variety of restaurants and bars at the festival that served all kinds of traditional Mexican and "Festival" food (burgers, fries, wings, etc.). We stopped in at the Casa del Nahual for lunch and enjoyed a delicious meal of bean tamales, enchiladas, Mexican rice and roasted meats all served with mole Poblano and of course - tortillas. We had a michelada to pair with it and continued on exploring the festival grounds.
A Feast for the Senses
Continuing my exploration, my senses were delighted in the vibrant sights and sounds. Stalls featuring cempasuchil flowers, commonly used in Day of the Dead celebrations, filled the tents with their bright yellows and oranges. The colors didn’t just catch the eye; they reminded me of life, food, and the celebration surrounding this vibrant festival.
Every turn offered a delightful surprise. I sampled an atole de cempasuchil, a warm drink made from a base of pulverized corn, cinnamon, flours and various other spices. This one had its' own special twist to fit in with the upcoming celebrations, which perfectly accompanied the festival atmosphere. Atole served as a comforting tribute to traditional Mexican flavors and warmed my spirit as I enjoyed the festivities. Bonus: it was served in a traditional mug that I got to take with me for a mere 40 pesos (~$3 CAD).
Apart from the atole I also sampled various other traditional foods and drinks. Right in line with the season, I tried a pulque de cempasuchil. Pulque is a traditional Mexican alcoholic beverage made from fermented agave sap. Dating back to pre-Hispanic times, it was sacred and consumed by Aztec priests, royalty, and elders. With a milky texture and earthy taste, it has a low alcohol content of 2-8%. Rich in vitamins, probiotics, and minerals, it's served plain or flavored as "curados." Pulque has made a comeback in urban areas like Mexico City, with specialized bars called "pulquerías" catering to a new generation of fans.
Last but not least a vendor caught my attention with caramelized agave leaves leftover from the production of mezcal - another tequila like alcohol. But isn't tequila made from agave? - Yes, but it can only be called tequila if it is made with blue agave and within a specific region of Mexico. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be produced all over the country using a variety of agave plants.
Now, these caramelized leaves offered a rich taste, perfectly pairing with the smoky notes of mezcal, providing a delightful way to satisfy my sweet cravings. Their texture was fibrous, like celery and sticky like peaches but boy were they good. Definitely not what you'd pick if you were looking for a purely sweet treat but if you want something a little more complex for your flavour pallet this is a great option. Unfortunately, I haven't seen this treat anywhere else, or maybe I just didn't know to look for it before.
Beyond the Food
Now for those of you thinking "None of that sounds appetizing" don't worry - there was ample non-food related activities worth checking out. Stalls filled with beautiful handicrafts from traditional artisans showcased intricate pottery, handwoven textiles, and stunning jewelry, comedy shows, live music, traditional dancing, fair rides and so much more evened out the festivals main goal of showcasing amazing traditional Mexican dishes.
Traditional Dancing, Live Entertainment and Cultural Demonstrations
Beyond the food, the festival showcased traditional dances at various levels. I stood captivated as colorful costumes swirled, and the dancers moving rhythmically to the lively music. Their performances told stories, full of energy and heartfelt expression. From children just learning the basics to professional adults the shows were a true testament to the importance of dance and music in Mexican culture.
Laughter filled the air during the hilarious comedy show featuring El Costeño, an unforgettable highlight of the day. His comedic storytelling resonated with the audience, weaving cultural insight into a performance that had everyone laughing. This blend of humor and tradition enriched my experience, showing how festivals celebrate the depth of local culture.
Apart from the dancing, live music, and comedy performances, there were also cultural showcases. During our visit, we witnessed the Danza de los Voladores (the dance of the flyers).
This ritual ceremony, recognized by UNESCO in 2009 and included in the "Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity," is a fertility dance practiced by various indigenous groups in Mexico and Central America, notably the Totonacs from the State of Veracruz. The purpose is to demonstrate reverence for nature and the spiritual realm, fostering harmony. Four young men ascend a pole traditionally crafted from a tree trunk, seeking forgiveness from the mountain deity. Meanwhile, a fifth man plays music on a flute and drum. Following the invocation, they leap from the summit, tethered by a single ankle to a rope. As they spin and gradually unwind the rope, mimicking bird flight, they gracefully descend to the ground.
A Day to Remember & Must-Visit for Travelers and Foodies
If you're in Mexico City or planning a trip to CDMX, make sure to attend the National Mole Festival. It perfectly showcases the essence of Mexican Tradition - from gastronomy, dance, comedy and so much more. With its delightful flavors, artistic displays, and cultural experiences, this festival deserves a spot on every food lover’s and travellers bucket list. It runs every year for almost the whole month of October, so there's plenty of time to go for more than one day if you end up loving it as much as I did.
Reflecting on my unforgettable day, I realized that it wasn’t just about tasting mole; it was about embracing the warmth of tradition, the joy of community, and the love of food that connects us all. Until next time, I will be dreaming of my next visit to this culinary paradise!
If you want to check it out, I'll leave the socials here👇
Comments